Stabilized wood ??

[jcz]

I have a few pieces of spalted maple and a burl I was thinking of sending off to get stabilized. The burl is one I found while turkey hunting last spring and have just cut it up. I know it isnt dry enough to turn. Does it need to be dry when I send it off or can they stabilize it like it is?
Also I know I should round out the blanks but should I predrill them also?
Thanks for any help. This is something I have not tried out before but after seeing some of the calls made from stabilized wood Id like to give it a try.

[theKCtermite]

The wood needs to be dried before stabilizing.   Fully dried. 

I don't know that I'd pre-drill the blanks to finished inside diameter.  Others might have had success with it, but the stabilizing could possibly cause subtle dimensional changes.  Maybe drill them out to 1/2" then run the 5/8" bit through them after you get them back.  Personally I wouldn't choose to drill them out before stabilizing, but I'm sure it can be done.  I'd either round them out or bandsaw the corners off the blanks (to make octagons) before stabilizing, just because you're paying based on weight of the finished product. 

Call and talk to WSSI in Iowa before you send anything in.  He's really helpful and informative.

[jcz]

Thanks KC

Another question.... will stabilizing fill in the inclusions on the wood? It seems every piece I was able to cut had bark inclusions. Some worse than others. Here is a piece I was going to try to cut for a turkey pot blank but feel like Im wasting my time. This is one of the worst pieces because it has a line of bark through the side. Opinions??

[stumpjumper]

Stabilizing wood does not fill incursions!  There must be material there tohold the resin in place

stump

[theKCtermite]

I agree with Stump that it will not completely FILL the inclusions.  That's no big deal...You can fill them with CA and some sort of filler like sawdust, brass shavings or coffee grounds.  I have been told by the owner of WSSI that clear stabilizing will fill voids much better than dyed stabilizing, but have no personal experience to back that one up.

For a turkey pot I'd rough turn it, maybe 1/4" thicker and wider than it'll eventually be.  But you could hollow a lot of it out to some degree.  I don't think I'd try to turn the pedestal or drill the holes until it is stabilized.

You'll love turning the stuff.  It is really fun.  You can buff it after a fine sanding and call it good, or you can apply finish for a better look. 

[jcz]

Thanks guys. I got the burl all cut up today and I will let it sit til its dry. I was really thinking Id like to get more turkey calls out of this burl than anything but the inclusions have me taking a step back. Im a little worried about turning it if there is a gap there from one of the inclusions. Guess its a waiting game now.

[Robert A.]

I am not sure how you are drying the Burl but i do know if it dries to fast it can bow and crack. I got some from Yothntr A year or so ago that was green, If i remember correctly he told me to dry it in a Ziplock gallon Bag and drain the water (moisture) out each day so it will not dry to fast. just a suggestion i thought i would pass along, i would hate to see something happen to that good looking chunk of Burl.

[jcz]

Thanks Robert. I will try to do something to it to slow down the drying process.